Outdoor and wash‑down environments are rough on life‑safety gear. This maintenance guide shows you how to keep weatherproof emergency lights inspection‑ready—covering test schedules, self‑testing, battery care, water‑ingress prevention, and a fast troubleshooting workflow. For big‑picture selection and ratings, see the Wet‑Location Emergency Egress Guide.
Last updated: October 2025
Why maintenance matters
Weather, wash‑down, and temperature swings can defeat outdoor fixtures if seals loosen or batteries degrade. Routine testing proves the unit still delivers the required 90‑minute emergency illumination and keeps you compliant for AHJ inspections. If you’re selecting or replacing units, pair this guide with the Complete Buyer’s Guide for Wet‑Location Emergency Lights to ensure you start with the right equipment.
Test schedule & recordkeeping
- Monthly (quick test): Activate for ~30 seconds; verify heads light, indicators behave normally, and no alarms show on self‑test units.
- Annually (full discharge): Run a continuous test for 90 minutes; confirm acceptable illumination level at the end of the cycle.
- Recordkeeping: Log date, location/ID, result, corrective actions, and initials. Keep logs accessible for AHJ review.
Monthly quick test (manual & self‑test)
Manual units
- Press push‑to‑test (or open the test switch) for ~30 seconds.
- Confirm both heads light, no flicker, and beam aim still covers the path.
- Release test; confirm charging/ready indicator returns to normal.
Self‑testing units
- Verify the indicator is in a ready state (per label). Clear any fault codes.
- Initiate a manual self‑test if required (many run automatically).
- Document status. Resolve flagged faults within your SLA.
Tip: Keep indicators visible from the ground. Remote test switches or binocular checks help for high‑mount fixtures.
Annual 90‑minute test
- Plan during mild weather if outdoors. Warn occupants where lights may dim.
- Initiate test; verify heads are aimed to wash the egress path, not the horizon.
- Record start and end time. At 90 minutes, visually confirm adequate illumination. Note any units that go dark early or show severe dimming.
- After recharge (often 24 hrs), re‑check that indicators return to normal.
Water‑tightness & visual inspection
- Gaskets & lenses: Tighten lens screws evenly. Look for pinched, cracked, or flattened gaskets; replace if compromised.
- Conduit & hubs: Use liquid‑tight fittings; cap unused knockouts. Seal entries; no upward‑facing open seams.
- Drain/weep orientation: Mount per arrow/label so drains face down.
- Corrosion: Prefer stainless hardware; treat rust promptly.
- Aiming: Re‑aim for layout changes or after impacts.
Battery care & replacement
Most outdoor units use sealed rechargeable packs (Ni‑Cd/Ni‑MH, some SLA; select models use LiFePO₄). Expect periodic replacement based on environment and test results.
- Signs of battery decline: Early drop‑out during annual test, swelling, leakage, or persistent “battery fault.”
- Replacement basics: De‑energize circuit, open enclosure without disturbing gaskets, replace with the specified pack, observe polarity, and re‑seal. Dispose per local rules.
- Cold‑weather kits: In freezing sites, specify low‑temp packs or internal heaters. Verify heater power and routing.
Troubleshooting: symptom → likely cause → fix
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Recommended Fix |
|---|---|---|
| No lights on test | Tripped breaker; loose neutral; failed charger; depleted/failed battery | Verify AC feed; check fuses; meter charger output; replace battery if voltage/capacity low |
| One head out / dim | Loose connector; water ingress in head; failed LED board | Inspect/replace sealed head; re‑terminate leads; aim/retighten |
| Indicator shows fault | Charger/battery/lamps fault; self‑test record indicates error | Follow legend; run diagnostic; replace failed module/battery; clear code; retest |
| Condensation / water inside lens | Compromised gasket; uneven torque; unsealed knockout | Replace gasket; reseal entries; torque evenly; confirm drain orientation |
| Fails before 90 minutes | Aged battery; extreme cold; excessive remote‑head load | Replace battery; add heater/low‑temp pack; reduce load or add unit |
Cold & hot climate tips
- Freezing sites: Choose low‑temp or heater options; for severe cold consider indoor battery with outdoor remote heads—see Remote Heads vs Integrated Outdoors and the Cold‑Weather Emergency Lights guide.
- High heat: Provide shading/air gap from dark metal facades; verify max ambient in the spec.
- Salt/chemicals: Favor NEMA 4X enclosures and stainless fasteners; rinse after wash‑down.
Install mistakes to avoid
- Leaving knockouts or conduit entries unsealed.
- Mounting against orientation so drains face sideways or up.
- Over‑torquing lens screws (crushes gaskets) or mixing dissimilar metals that corrode.
- Overloading remote‑head capacity and failing the 90‑minute test.
Maintenance log template
| Date | Unit ID / Location | Test Type | Result | Action / Notes | Initials |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| YYYY‑MM‑DD | Stair 2 / Exterior Door | Monthly | Pass | — | AB |
Safety note: De‑energize circuits before servicing. If you’re not qualified, use a licensed electrician.
Resources & related reading
FAQ
How often should I replace batteries?
Replace when units cannot sustain a 90‑minute test, show swelling/leakage, or trigger battery faults. Environment and chemistry determine lifespan; follow the spec and your test results.
Can I reseal a unit that took on water?
Yes—replace damaged gaskets, reseal knockouts with liquid‑tight fittings, and torque lens screws evenly. If boards or heads were submerged, replace affected parts and re‑test.
Do self‑testing lights replace manual tests?
Self‑diagnostics simplify compliance but you still need documented checks. Follow your AHJ’s expectations and keep logs.