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Remote Capable Emergency Lights

Remote capable emergency lights (also called remote head capable emergency lights or remote-ready emergency lighting) are battery-backup egress fixtures that can power their own lamps and low-voltage remote heads from one “host” unit. Most systems use a 6V or 12V DC remote output so you can extend coverage around corners, down stair landings, or into long corridors while still meeting the standard 90-minute emergency runtime.

This approach can reduce wall clutter and simplify maintenance on larger layouts: one accessible host can feed multiple remote heads where light is actually needed. Browse all emergency lights, then add compatible remote heads for doors, turns, stairs, and discharge points.

Remote-Head Output 6V / 12V DC (varies) 90-Min Battery Backup LED Adjustable Heads Self-Testing (select) Supervised Remotes (select)
Buyers Guide Tips

What to Look for in Remote Capable Emergency Lights

  • Match remote voltage first: Remote heads must match the host’s output (commonly 6V or 12V DC). Don’t mix voltages on one branch.
  • Budget watts at 90 minutes: Add the watts for all emergency lamps (on-board heads + every remote head) and stay within the unit’s rated remote/total capacity. Leave a margin for temperature, aging, and wire loss.
  • Plan wire distance & gauge: Long, thin wire can dim the farthest head (voltage drop). Keep runs short, upsize copper for distance, and consider 12V systems when runs are longer. Learn voltage-drop basics.
  • Prefer supervised remotes when available: Supervision helps flag remote-branch faults at the host, reducing time spent hunting for a failed head.

Want a deeper wiring walkthrough and load examples? See our Remote Heads sizing & wiring guide.

Install tip: After commissioning, run a full-duration test and verify the farthest remote head at the end of the cycle—not just at initial output. Label remote branches at the host and at each head to speed future service.

Remote Capable Emergency Lights – Centralized Power for Extended Coverage
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Information Hub: Remote Capacity, Wiring Distance & Remote Head Layout

Remote-capable emergency lights use a single battery-backed fixture (the “host”) to power both on-board lamps and low-voltage remote heads. This approach extends emergency illumination around corners, down corridors, and onto stair landings—while keeping wall layouts clean and maintenance centralized.

Diagram showing how a remote-capable emergency light powers local heads and 6V or 12V remote heads for 90-minute egress lighting.
How remote-capable emergency lights use one battery to power on-board lamps plus 6V or 12V remote heads, with proper watt budgeting, wire sizing, and full 90-minute verification.
  • One host, multiple heads: The emergency unit contains the battery, charger, and transfer circuitry that supply both local lamps and connected remote heads during an outage.
  • Low-voltage remote output: Most systems use 6V or 12V DC. Remote heads must match the host’s output voltage and stay within the unit’s rated watt capacity.
  • Distance matters: Longer wire runs increase voltage drop. Keep runs short, upsize wire where needed, and always verify the farthest head at the end of the 90-minute test cycle.

Remote Capacity Math (Quick Method)

  • Step 1 — Match voltage: Confirm whether the host outputs 6V or 12V DC, then select remote heads with the same voltage rating.
  • Step 2 — Add all lamp watts: Include both on-board emergency lamps and every remote head in the total load.
  • Step 3 — Verify at 90 minutes: Keep the total within rated capacity and leave margin for temperature, aging, and voltage drop.

Wiring Distance & Voltage Drop

  • Place the host closer to the cluster of remote heads (doors, turns, stair landings) to minimize run length.
  • Use heavier-gauge copper for longer runs to reduce voltage drop and preserve brightness.
  • Designers often target ≤5% voltage drop at the farthest head. Consider higher-voltage systems (12V) when distance or load increases.

For detailed wiring examples and voltage-drop calculations, see our Remote Heads sizing & wiring guide .

FAQs About Remote Capable Emergency Lights

How many remote heads can a remote-capable emergency light drive?

There’s no universal “head count”—it’s a watt budget. Add the watts for on-board lamps plus every remote head and keep the total within the unit’s rated capacity for the full 90-minute emergency window. Lower-watt LED remote heads let you power more locations than older high-watt lamps.

Do I subtract the on-board lamp watts from the remote capacity?

Sometimes. Some manufacturers list a remote-only watt budget; others effectively share battery capacity across multiple loads. Before ordering, confirm on the cut sheet how the rating is defined. When in doubt, size the host with margin and verify the farthest head during a full-duration test.

Can I mix 6V and 12V remote heads on the same emergency light?

No. Remote heads must match the host fixture’s DC output voltage. Mixing voltages can cause under-illumination or damage. Use only heads listed as compatible with the unit’s remote circuit.

How far can I run remote-head wiring before brightness drops?

Distance is limited by voltage drop. Keep runs short, upsize wire for longer distances, and consider 12V hosts for longer runs. For practical examples and quick math, see our voltage drop guide.

Will the unit report a failed remote head?

Only if it has supervised remote circuits. Supervised models can flag a remote-branch fault at the host’s indicator so maintenance can troubleshoot faster.

What remote heads should I pair with these fixtures?

Match the host’s voltage (6V/12V), then confirm head wattage and environment rating (dry/damp/wet/cold/hazardous). Start here: remote heads for emergency lights. For a deeper walkthrough, see our Remote Heads sizing & wiring guide.