Need exit signs that also power remote lamps? This plain-English guide shows facility teams how to plan, size, and wire remote lamp heads driven from an exit sign’s battery—so you cover egress lighting without cluttering walls with extra fixtures. For parts and examples, browse: Remote Heads · Sign-Only with Head Outputs · Exit Sign + Light Combos · Emergency Lights w/ Head Outputs.
Concept: exit signs that feed remote heads
Some exit signs include a higher-capacity battery and a low-voltage output. That output can power one or more remote lamp heads mounted away from the sign, so one host provides the “EXIT” legend and area illumination during an outage. The goal: fewer boxes on the wall, simpler testing, and clean coverage along the way-out.
You’ll also find emergency-light “host” fixtures (no EXIT legend) and combo units (EXIT + two lamps on the face) that offer the same low-voltage outputs for remote heads. Choose whichever form factor best fits your location and sightlines; the planning steps below apply to them all.
At-a-glance (how remote-capable systems succeed)
- “Remote-capable” means the host has a low-voltage DC output and a battery sized to run the load for the full 90-minute emergency window.
- Best use cases: around corners, down stairs, long corridors, vestibules, and exterior discharge landings.
- Sizing order: match voltage → confirm watt budget → verify wire distance/gauge → place/aim → full 90-minute test.
- Most common failures: voltage mismatch, overload, voltage drop from long/thin wire, or the wrong environment rating (wet/cold/hazardous).
Need a fast compatibility sanity-check? Use the Remote Head Compatibility Matrix.
Load math that never fails (quick method)
- Find the host’s remote capacity. Spec sheets list a maximum remote watt budget (e.g., 3 W, 6 W, 11 W, 20 W) for the standard 1½-hour emergency window.
- Know each head’s draw. Small LED heads are often ~1–3 W; higher-output heads can be 5–7 W or more.
- Divide capacity by head watts. Example: 6 W capacity ÷ 1.5 W/head ≈ 4 heads. Leave a little margin.
- Match voltage. Use heads rated for the host’s output (commonly 3.6 V, 6 V, or 12 V). Mixing voltages = dim or damaged heads.
- Confirm at full discharge. After install, run a full 90-minute test and verify brightness at the farthest head at the end of the cycle.
Some hosts list a remote-only watt budget, while others effectively share battery capacity across multiple loads (EXIT legend, on-board heads, and remotes—especially on combo units). Before ordering, confirm whether you must subtract any on-board lamp watts before calculating how many remote heads you can run.
How to read the spec sheet (what to verify before ordering)
Before you buy remote heads (or a host unit), verify these items on the cut sheet / label so the system is bright at the farthest head and still passes a full-duration test.
- Remote output voltage (DC): Match heads exactly (3.6 V / 6 V / 12 V). Don’t guess—check the listing.
- Remote capacity (watts @ 90 minutes): Confirm the rated emergency window is the standard 90 minutes at the stated load.
- What the remote capacity includes: Determine whether that watt budget is remotes only or shared with on-board lamps (and how the manufacturer wants it calculated).
- Environment rating: Dry vs damp vs wet; cold-weather kits/heaters; hazardous listings if applicable.
- Input / installation notes: Branch circuit voltage, wiring method notes, mounting options, and any “max distance” guidance from the manufacturer.
- Testing features: Manual test button vs self-testing diagnostics (saves time on monthly/annual checks).
Fast tools: Compatibility Matrix · Voltage Guide · NFPA 70 (NEC) Compliance Guide
Placement & aiming that cover real egress paths
- Start at doors/intersections. Hosts belong where you must mark the exit anyway; remote heads then “carry” light down the path.
- Aim for the walk line. Point heads along corridors, stairs, and turns—avoid wasting lumens on walls or shelving.
- Design for overlap. Don’t “barely touch” beam edges—overlap patterns so there’s no dark hesitation zone.
- Mind mounting height. Typical 7–8 ft centers work for most heads. High bays? Use higher-output optics or add a second host closer to the egress path.
Layout cheat sheet (common scenarios)
Straight corridor
Place the host at the exit door, then add heads to “push” light down the corridor with overlap. Corridor-style optics often throw farther with fewer heads.
One turn / intersection
Add one head before the turn and one after. This prevents the “dark corner” that causes hesitation (and triggers inspection comments).
Stairwell / landing / switchback
Treat landings like “mini rooms” and stair runs like corridors. Use heads to avoid harsh contrast between landings and treads.
Exterior discharge / canopy
Outdoor egress needs wet-rated gear. In cold climates, protect the host/battery when possible and use rated heads outdoors.
- Wet/outdoor/wash-down: Wet‑Location Emergency Egress Guide (and outdoor aiming: Outdoor IP65 Remote Heads)
- Cold storage/freezers/winter climates: Cold‑Weather Emergency Lights
- Hazardous areas (Class I, Div 2): C1D2 Remote Heads Basics
Beam choice matters (throw vs spread): see MR16 vs PAR36 Remote Heads.
Wiring & voltage-drop basics
- Parallel wiring, correct polarity. Remote heads tie to the host’s low-voltage “+ / –” terminals; keep polarity straight.
- Gauge vs distance. Short runs: 18 AWG is common. Longer or higher-load branches: upsize to 16/14 AWG to tame drop.
- Protect the run. Use compliant wiring methods for the space (above-ceiling paths, conduit where required); label remote branches at the host and at each head for quick service.
- Test monthly/annually. Quick monthly checks and a full 1½-hour discharge annually keep you inspection-ready.
Host low-voltage output
(+) --------------------+--------------------+-----> Head #1 (+)
| |
+--------------------+-----> Head #2 (+)
|
+--------------------+-----> Head #3 (+)
(–) --------------------+--------------------+-----> Head #1 (–)
| |
+--------------------+-----> Head #2 (–)
|
+--------------------+-----> Head #3 (–)
Rule: All heads share the same + and – in parallel. Keep polarity consistent end-to-end.
Wiring compliance refresher (rules vary by site and AHJ): NFPA 70 (NEC) Compliance Guide.
Combo vs separate vs light-only hosts
Exit sign + built-in lamps
Use where you need an EXIT legend and local light in the same spot. Many models also power extra remote heads for around-the-corner coverage.
Sign-only hosts
Good when you prefer small remote heads placed exactly where light is needed, and a clean EXIT face at the door.
Light-only hosts
Use in large rooms or back-of-house where you don’t need an EXIT legend but want one battery to drive several heads.
Specifier tip: If the exit sign is subject to frequent bumps (e.g., loading docks), consider a separate light-only host in a protected location with remote heads out in the space.
Spec & install checklist
- Confirm environment (dry/damp/wet, cold, hazardous where applicable)
- Pick host voltage/output (3.6 V / 6 V / 12 V) and remote capacity (W @ 90 min)
- Confirm what the “remote capacity” includes (remote-only vs shared); subtract on-board lamp watts if required
- Select remote heads by voltage and watts; calculate head count with margin
- Plan cable routes and gauge for distance; label branches end-to-end
- Aim heads along the walk path; verify the “end-of-test” brightness at the farthest head
- Document monthly quick checks and annual full-duration tests (inspection-ready log)
Quick cross-check: Remote Head Compatibility Matrix.
Avoid these common pitfalls
- Overloading the output. Don’t exceed the host’s remote watt rating—runtime and brightness will suffer.
- Voltage mismatch. 12 V heads on a 6 V output won’t work (and vice versa).
- Long skinny runs. Excess drop = dim heads at the far end. Upsize wire, shorten runs, split branches, or add a closer host.
- Poor aiming. Lighting walls isn’t lighting egress. Aim beams where people walk and design for overlap.
- Wrong ratings. Indoor heads in wet/freezer/hazardous spaces fail early. Match listings and environment ratings.
- Skipping records. Keep a simple log—date, pass/fail, corrective action. It pays off at inspection.
Quick FAQ
How many remote heads can one host run?
Divide the host’s remote watt budget by a head’s watt draw and leave margin. Example: 6 W host ÷ 1.5 W/head ≈ 4 heads.
Does the remote watt budget include the EXIT legend or on-board lamps?
Sometimes it’s “remote-only,” and sometimes the battery capacity is shared across multiple loads (especially on combos). Always confirm on the spec sheet and subtract any on-board lamp watts if required. For a worked example, see Remote-Capable Exit Sign Combos – Extending Emergency Coverage.
Do I need the same voltage on heads and host?
Yes—match 3.6 V, 6 V, or 12 V exactly. Mismatches cause dim output or damage. If you’re mixing brands/models, sanity-check with the Compatibility Matrix.
What about long wire runs?
Use heavier gauge or a higher-voltage host, and verify brightness at the end of the 1½-hour test. Start with the Wire Gauge & Distance Tables.
Where do remote heads make the biggest difference?
Turns, long corridors, mezzanines, stair runs, and large rooms where a single box can’t throw light far enough by itself.
Inspection readiness: testing & documentation
Remote-head systems pass inspections when two things are true: (1) the path is visibly lit at the floor, and (2) you can prove you test and maintain it.
- Monthly: quick functional test (or a quick visual round for self-testing units) and note any failures.
- Annually: full 90-minute discharge test—verify the farthest head is still bright near the end of the cycle.
- Keep a simple job folder: one-line diagram, head schedule (watts + qty), conductor gauge/run lengths, and test logs.
Want to reduce clipboard time? Self-Testing vs Manual ROI Calculator · Automatic Testing Guide
Common inspection misses (good checklist): 10 Common Fire Inspection Failures · Maintenance standard overview: NFPA 70B Electrical Maintenance Guide
Related Fire Code Guides (2 must-reads)
These two cover the national baseline for equipment listing and egress illumination. Always confirm with your AHJ.
Next steps
- Sketch your path of egress and mark where light is needed (doors, turns, long runs, stairs, exterior discharge).
- Choose a host style that fits the location: combo unit, sign-only host, or light-only host.
- Pick compatible remote heads, do the watt math, and plan wiring gauge by distance.
- After install, run a full-duration test and adjust aiming until the walk line is consistently lit.