Need exit signs that also power remote lamps? This plain-English guide shows facility teams how to plan, size, and wire remote lamp heads driven from an exit sign’s battery—so you cover egress lighting without cluttering walls with extra fixtures. For parts and examples, browse: Remote Heads · Sign-Only with Head Outputs · Exit Sign + Light Combos · Emergency Lights w/ Head Outputs.
Last updated: October 2025
Concept: exit signs that feed remote heads
Some exit signs include a higher-capacity battery and a low-voltage output. That output can power one or more remote lamp heads mounted away from the sign, so one host provides the “EXIT” legend and area illumination during an outage. The goal: fewer boxes on the wall, simpler testing, and clean coverage along the way-out.
You’ll also find emergency-light “host” fixtures (no EXIT legend) and combo units (EXIT + two lamps on the face) that offer the same low-voltage outputs for remote heads. Choose whichever form factor best fits your location and sightlines; the planning steps below apply to them all.
Load math that never fails (quick method)
- Find the host’s remote capacity. Spec sheets list a maximum remote watt budget (e.g., 3 W, 6 W, 11 W) for the standard 1½-hour emergency window.
- Know each head’s draw. Small LED heads are often ~1–3 W; higher-output heads can be 5–7 W or more.
- Divide capacity by head watts. Example: 6 W capacity ÷ 1.5 W/head ≈ 4 heads. Leave a little margin.
- Match voltage. Use heads rated for the host’s output (commonly 3.6 V, 6 V, or 12 V). Mixing voltages = dim or damaged heads.
- Confirm at full discharge. After install, run a full 90-minute test and verify brightness at the farthest head at the end of the cycle.
Placement & aiming that cover real egress paths
- Start at doors/intersections. Hosts belong where you must mark the exit anyway; remote heads then “carry” light down the path.
- Aim for the walk line. Point heads along corridors, stairs, and turns—avoid lighting walls or shelving.
- Check the corner case. If the path bends, mount one head before the turn and one after, so there’s no dark hesitation zone.
- Mind mounting height. Typical 7–8 ft centers work for most heads. High bays? Use higher-output heads or add a second host closer to the floor.
- Wet/cold areas. Use wet-location heads and sealed hosts outdoors or in freezers; cold reduces battery output without heaters.
Wiring & voltage-drop basics
- Parallel wiring, correct polarity. Remote heads tie to the host’s low-voltage “+ / –” terminals; keep polarity straight.
- Gauge vs distance. Short runs: 18 AWG is common. Longer or higher-load branches: upsize to 16/14 AWG to tame drop.
- Protect the run. Use conduit or above-ceiling paths; label remote branches at the host and at each head for quick service.
- Test monthly/annually. Quick monthly checks and a full 1½-hour discharge annually keep you inspection-ready.
Combo vs separate vs light-only hosts
Exit sign + built-in lamps
Use where you need an EXIT legend and local light in the same spot. Many models also power extra remote heads for around-the-corner coverage.
Sign-only hosts
Good when you prefer small remote heads placed exactly where light is needed, and a clean EXIT face at the door.
Light-only hosts
Use in large rooms or back-of-house where you don’t need an EXIT legend but want one battery to drive several heads.
Spec & install checklist
- Confirm environment (dry/damp/wet, cold, hazardous where applicable)
- Pick host voltage/output (3.6 V / 6 V / 12 V) and remote capacity (W)
- Select remote heads by voltage and watts; calculate head count with margin
- Plan cable routes and gauge for distance; label branches end-to-end
- Aim heads along the walk path; verify the “end-of-test” brightness
- Document monthly quick checks and annual full-duration tests
Avoid these common pitfalls
- Overloading the output. Don’t exceed the host’s remote watt rating—runtime will fall short.
- Voltage mismatch. 12 V heads on a 6 V output won’t work (and vice versa).
- Long skinny runs. Excess drop = dim heads at the far end. Upsize wire or add a closer host.
- Poor aiming. Lighting walls isn’t lighting egress. Aim beams where people walk.
- Wrong ratings. Indoor heads in wet/freezer spaces fail early. Use wet/cold-rated kits.
- Skipping records. Keep a simple log—date, pass/fail, corrective action. It pays off at inspection.
Quick FAQ
How many remote heads can one host run?
Divide the host’s remote watt budget by a head’s watt draw and leave margin. Example: 6 W host ÷ 1.5 W/head ≈ 4 heads.
Do I need the same voltage on heads and host?
Yes—match 3.6 V, 6 V, or 12 V exactly. Mismatches cause dim output or damage.
What about long wire runs?
Use heavier gauge or a higher-voltage host. Always verify brightness at the end of the 1½-hour test.
Where do remote heads make the biggest difference?
Turns, long corridors, mezzanines, stair runs, and large rooms where a single box can’t throw light far enough by itself.
Next steps
- Sketch your path of egress and mark where light is needed (doors, turns, long runs).
- Choose a host style that fits the location: combo unit, sign-only host, or light-only host.
- Pick compatible remote heads, do the watt math, and plan wiring gauge by distance.
- After install, run a full-duration test and adjust aiming until the walk line is consistently lit.