Quick Picks

What Are Remote Heads?

Remote heads are standalone emergency lamp heads—single or double—that you mount away from a central, remote-capable emergency light or exit sign combo. Instead of having their own battery and charger, they borrow power and control from the host unit. Think of the host as a “battery hub.” You can place remote heads where you need extra coverage: around a corner, down a stair run, outside at an exit door, or across a long corridor. The wiring is low-voltage DC, and the heads are fully adjustable so you can aim light exactly where people walk during an outage.

Why Use Remote Heads (Costs & Maintenance)

Remote heads are a smart way to stretch your emergency lighting budget. Because they tie into the battery and charger you already bought, you’re not paying for another full set of electronics. Over a floor or a campus, that adds up—especially when you consider maintenance. Fewer full fixtures means fewer batteries to replace and fewer labels to track during inspections. During monthly tests, your team activates the host unit and confirms that all attached remote heads light as expected. It’s simple, fast, and reduces the chance of missing a device during walkthroughs.

There’s also a design advantage: remote heads let you keep main equipment tucked in an easy-to-service spot (e.g., a corridor or electrical room) while still lighting a stair door or outdoor landing. If you’ve ever tried to hang a boxy emergency unit on a narrow glass wall—or near signage and cameras—you know the pain. Remote heads give you the light where it’s needed, without cluttering up the space.

Types of Remote Heads (By Environment & Material)

The best pick depends on where the light will live and what your code/officer expects. Here’s a friendly rundown:

• Thermoplastic (indoor): Lightweight, budget-friendly, great for schools, offices, and standard corridors. Usually damp-location rated.
• Steel/Chicago: Heavier, tougher, and often required for Chicago code jobs. Good in high-traffic areas where equipment takes bumps.
• Aluminum/Architectural: A clean, modern look with solid durability. Nice where the head is visible and you want it to “belong.”
• Wet/NEMA 4X (outdoor/harsh): Gasketed, weatherproof, corrosion-resistant. The go-to for exterior doors, covered walkways, garages, or wash-down zones.
• Hazardous location: Specialized ratings (e.g., Class I, Div 2). Use only where flammable gases/vapors may be present and the spec calls for it.
• Single vs. dual head: Single for spot coverage, dual for wider throw or two directions from one box. Dual heads draw roughly double the power—plan runtime accordingly.

When to Use Remote Heads vs. Another Unit

Remote heads shine (pun intended) when you need more light in reach of a remote-capable host. They’re especially handy down a long corridor, around corners, at stair doors, and outdoors. If a location is very far from any host or needs lots of lumens (e.g., high bay), a dedicated emergency unit may be simpler. When wall space is tight or you’re dealing with glass, remote heads keep things tidy. If inspections are a concern, fewer batteries and fewer test labels can be a real time saver—another point for remotes.

Compatibility: Matching Heads to Host Units

Compatibility comes down to three things: remote-capable host, matching voltage, and available wattage.

• Remote-capable host: The emergency light or exit combo must include terminals for remote heads and a bigger battery/charger section. This is often called “RC” or “remote capacity.”
• Voltage match: If the head is 3.6 V, use a 3.6 V host. Same idea for 6 V or 12 V systems. Some heads support a range—always check the spec label.
• Wattage budget: The host lists how many “remote watts” it can support for 90 minutes. Add up all lamp watts (host lamps + remote heads) and stay at or under that number.

Tip: If you’re planning a longer run to the head, and the wire has to snake around a lot of structure, consider a higher-voltage system (12 V or 24 V) or a thicker cable to minimize voltage drop.

Sizing Runtime & Battery Capacity

You can sanity-check capacity with a quick back-of-napkin:

1. List each lamp’s wattage (host heads + remote heads).
2. Convert to amps: Amps = Watts ÷ System Voltage.
3. Sum the amps for all lamps you’re powering from the battery.
4. Multiply by 1.5 hours to get the amp-hours needed for 90 minutes.

Example: A 12 V system with two 6 W remote heads (12 W) and two 3 W host lamps (6 W) totals 18 W. Current is 18/12 = 1.5 A. Over 1.5 hours you’ll want ~2.25 Ah (plus manufacturer headroom). If the host’s datasheet says “remote capacity 12 W,” those two 6 W heads alone would hit the ceiling—time to use higher-efficiency heads or a host with more capacity.

Installation & Wiring Best Practices

• Electrical boxes: Most remotes mount to a single-gang or 4″ octagon box; some heavier units spec a 4″ square. Outdoors, use a weatherproof box with a gasketed cover.
• Environment first: Wet/NEMA heads get weatherproof fittings and gaskets; don’t mix indoor heads outdoors.
• Cable & polarity: Two-conductor low-voltage cable from host remote terminals to the head. Size the gauge for distance; secure with strain reliefs and avoid hot/mechanical hazards.
• Aim & test: Set the beams to hit doors, tread lines, and corridor turns. Log a 90-minute discharge at commissioning; include remotes in monthly checks.

Compliance: UL 924 & NFPA 101—What Inspectors Check

• UL 924 listing on host and heads; damp/wet ratings match the space.
• NFPA 101 levels: 1 fc average / 0.1 fc minimum along the path of egress; no deep shadows at turns or stairs.
• Testing & logs: Monthly functional test, annual 90-minute discharge, and simple documentation. If your host has self-test, learn its indicator/fault codes.

Remote Head Comparison (Visual Table)

Below are popular remote heads with quick specs. Pick by environment first (indoor/outdoor/Chicago), then match voltage and capacity to your host unit.

*Always verify the host unit is remote-capable, matches the head’s voltage, and has enough remote wattage to maintain 90-minute runtime.

Recommendations by Use-Case

• Schools & offices (indoor, budget): MRHLED or RHLED (thermoplastic). Easy to mount, light load on the host, clean look.
• Warehouses & long corridors: HPRL or RHL16ED (MR16 HL option) for longer throw and higher mounting heights.
• Exterior doors & garages: MRHLED-Outdoor for compact wet location, or HPRL-Outdoor for high-output outdoor coverage.
• Wash-down / corrosive / coastal: INDRHLED (NEMA 4X) for sealed, corrosion-resistant durability.
• Chicago code: CHIR (steel) paired with a Chicago-approved host.
• Design-sensitive areas: JLED or clean thermoplastic heads in white/black; keep the host tucked away and the head discreet.

FAQs

How many remote heads can I add to one host?

As many as the host’s remote wattage capacity allows while still meeting 90 minutes. Add up lamp watts and compare to the host’s spec sheet. If you’re close to the limit, move to higher-efficiency heads or a host with more capacity.

Do I need a licensed electrician?

Low-voltage wiring is straightforward, but you still need to land connections in the host unit and meet box/enclosure requirements. If you’re not comfortable with code details, it’s worth using a licensed pro—especially for outdoor, Chicago, or hazardous installs.

Can I mix 3.6 V heads on a 6 V unit?

No. Voltage must match. Use heads that explicitly state the same voltage as the host (or a multi-volt head that includes your system voltage).

How do I handle long wire runs?

Use thicker cable, reduce total wattage on the run, or choose a higher-voltage system (12/24 V) to keep voltage drop below ~5% at the head.

Conclusion

Remote heads are the easiest way to put light where people truly need it—stairs, turns, exits—without multiplying batteries and boxes. Choose the head for the environment (indoor, wet, steel/Chicago, high-power), make sure voltage and wattage match the host, and wire with care. Do that, and your system will pass tests, satisfy inspectors, and—most importantly—guide people out safely when the lights go out.

Ready to build your kit? Browse the full lineup of remote heads, then match voltage and capacity to an appropriate remote-capable host.